Q. We have a gas water heater and we would like to have an electric w.h. instead. How hard would it be to switch, and what do we need to do to change it over?

A. Its not too difficult... You'll need to run a circuit to the new heater, from your panel box...so that means wire, and a circuit breaker. (it should be on a circuit by itself, straight from the panel box, not run from something else). Plumbing wise, you'll just need some standard fittings/adapters to connect to your existing plumbing....for example, you may need to extend the plumbing (or cut it back) to match the connector on the water heater. You'll also need a cap on the gas line. (I'd just tape over the exhaust stack opening from the old heater with aluminum tape, or duct tape) Have Fun

(No Chosen Answer)

Q. I have a shower and the plumbing runs up from the floor. On the wall the containing the plumbing, on the opposite side, is an electrical switch and outlet. What is the minimum safe distance between the electrical lines and the plumbing so that a plumbing leak doesn't result in someone being killed or hurt?

A. There is no NEC (national electric code) restriction on this. The supply pipes and electric wire and box could actually all be on the same stud.

(No Chosen Answer)

Q. I added 3 plumbing fixtures to my garage without permit but didn't finish yet. I need to sell my house so I would like to stop working on plumbing and get the inspection. Can I just cap the pipes? Or do I need to remove pipes from the garage? Or Do I have to remove all pipes from the basement I installed?

A. Just apply for it & will get

(No Chosen Answer)

Q. I have a problem. I always flush my cig butts down the toilet and now there is a plumbing problem in my apt building. They will be turning off the hot water for repairs. Will It get traced back to me?

A. Only cold water it routed to the toilet. Flushing drains the water to the sewage pipe. Hot or cold bears nothing to this, its all sewage.

(No Chosen Answer)

Q. I cut a chase in sub-floor to change plumbing from a tub to a shower, i covered sub-floor with 1/4 durarock,then cement for a solid base,morter mix to slope floor towards drain i was then going to install a membrane when customers tile installer said it had to be removed and replaced that i installed it incorrectly. It was my understanding that after the membrane he was to install thinset over membrane and then tile ? can someone please help answer my questions i still am not sure if i made any mistakes i was trying to ensure a good base for durable longevity

A. The membrane goes behind the durock, and under the mortar bed, the idea is that the membrane holds all the water in and is the last defense between the wood and durock/mortar bed, thinset wont bond to the membrane, it is meant to be attached to concrete of some form whether durock or the mortar bed...putting a membrane in between will keep the the thinset from attaching properly and in turn would cause a horrible tile job, you will need to rip out everything you did and start over from the frame work, dont be surprised if this customer doesn't call you back for anymore work. i would suggest hiring a sub-contractor who knows how to do the job properly and eat the cost if you want to maintain any kind of reputation. and dont take jobs that you aren't 100% sure you know how to do. i dont suggest shoving the membrane under the mortar bed or making an attempt to "make" it work...if its not done right and it leaks you can face a law suit for future water damage because of poor installation of membrane. It has to be done right.

(No Chosen Answer)

Q. I had the plumbers in here on Friday to install a cutoff valve in hopes of getting a new refrigerator soon. I just had a "floating" vinyl floor installed 6 months ago. Good Armstrong high quality flooring. When the plumber moved my old peg-legged (no rollers on this baby) refrigerator he tore and "X" 4 inch by 4 inch section of my new flooring. They want to patch it. I say replace it. If it had been 4 or 5 years old I could live with a patch. I saved a long time to get this flooring installed. I paid cash for the materials and installation. What would you do?? Well good news!!! The plumbing company has agreed to replace my flooring. The President of the Company came out himself and said "if it was my house I would want it replaced too". End of story - problem solved. Thank you all for your answers. And oh Bob, nanananana!!!

A. Of course the contractors will tell you to patch it, they don't have to live with the floor. Is it too much to ask that the appliance be moved properly, is this his first job. A responsible contractor carries a set of furniture, appliance movers to avoid this situation. There is no way to patch this floor without leaving an obvious defect. Demand a new floor and if they don't respond, call the plumbers association and the better business bureau. That's the cost of doing business carelessly. If he broke your sink would you let him patch it, if it's a real business, he has liability insurance. Once you agree to a patch you are relinquishing your claim

(No Chosen Answer)

Q. - Quote to replace tub and tub surround - $1,700 - "this would be barring any problems" - Remove and dispose old carpet & baseboards - $300 - Paint entire apartment including kitchen and bathrom cupboards and hallway -$2,100 - Carpet installation (275 sq.ft) and vinyl flooring (275 sq.ft) - $2500 The apartment is a 1-bedroom only 550 sq/ft. it's a rental business and not in the best area in town in Ontario, Canada so I just want it to be nice and simple, not expensive fancy stuff. (for example commercial grade carpet is perfect). There was a heavy smoker living there before. is it possible painting is more expensive becasueof that for example? how much approximately should the above items really cost? THANKS.

A. If the tub quote includes the tub, new plumbing and faucets it is OK. Not good, but OK. The rest of those are nuts. The carpet and vinyl, removal, and replacement is more like 800-1000, unless you are buying high end carpet. Painting a place that small is maybe 60 in supplies and 100 to paint, it will take 6-7 hours to prep and paint. Another 2 hours for the cupboards.

(No Chosen Answer)

Q. Bathroom sink pipe sprung a major leak, 15 minutes worth of tap water soaked hardwood flooring, plaster walls and ceilings and ran into some duct work...also we are concerned about the electrical wiring behind ceiling and walls, what are some good characteristics to look for in hiring a contractor who specializes in this type of work? Also, is it typical for the homeowner's insurance to cover the plumbing work? So far, the adjuster says only work to repair damage is covered but not the plumbing that caused the problem...sound right?

A. Your adjuster is correct. Your insurance policy owes for access to get to the plumbing leak and to repair it but NOT for the part itself. Start by making sure your house is dried out properly by a certified water damage restoration company (i.e. ServiceMaster). They will find out where the water damage starts and ends, take moisture reading of your flooring and walls & may place fans/dehumidifiers to dry out your home. After the place is dried out, then address rebuild. If you need paint, drywall, flooring or baseboards...ask your adjuster if they have a "preferred" general contractor that is on the company's preferred program. Go with one of them if they do. Good luck.

(No Chosen Answer)